DIVIDING PERENNIALS IN THE FALL

It's that time of year to start thinking about wrapping up our summer gardens and preparing for winter. One of the things that should be done in September is to split spring flowering perennials if needed. We've compiled a 'how to' list to help you.

WHEN TO DIVIDE

1. If it blooms in the spring, divide it in the fall.
2. If it blooms in the summer or fall, wait to divide it in the spring as soon as frost is out of the ground.
3. It’s best to divide perennials when it is cool and cloudy.

HOW TO DIVIDE

1. One method is to put a sharp shovel onto the root between two growing points and step on the shovel. The shovel should point straight down. Ensure you have enough roots and a decent size chunk of the main rhizome or root structure (at least six inches) so the plant contains growing points to send up shoots.
   
2. Another method is to dig the entire perennial out of the ground. You can then cut it up replanting both parts. This works best if the mother plant is small and you need to be careful with the division.
   
3. Shake or hose off loose soil and remove dead leaves and stems. This will help loosen tangled root balls. You can use two garden forks back to back and pry apart the roots to get a good division if needed.
   

WHEN AND HOW TO PLANT

1. Never allow divisions to dry out. If planting immediately, keep a pail of water nearby to moisten divisions until they are planted. Otherwise, you can wrap them in damp newspaper to keep them moist for a short period of time.
   
2. Trim all broken roots with a sharp knife or pruners before replanting.
   
3. Plant the divided sections as soon as possible in the garden or in containers at the same depth they were originally.
   
4. Firm soil around the roots to eliminate air pockets.
   
5. Water well after planting.

Does Weeding Really Make A Difference?

One of the questions we get most often is “Does weeding really make that much difference?'' The chart below is from the Washington/Oregon Master Gardener Handbook. It relates specifically to vegetables but the comparisons in production are significant. Plot sizes were not specified, but weeded and unweeded plots were of equal size. With the exception of weed management, both plots were treated the same.

So, what’s the issue with weeds? Weeds compete for the nutrients and moisture intended for the desired plants in our gardens. Plants cannot flourish in an environment where they are struggling for food and water. Some weeds put out toxins to control their territory thereby inhibiting the growth of other plants. There is also the unsightly appearance of this unwanted vegetation in our landscape.

So we urge you to WEED EARLY, WEED OFTEN and WEED SHALLOW when close to your desired plants. For those of you who already have a circlehoe, you know how much easier it makes the job.

TESTIMONIAL
Just bought one of your circlehoe's. WOW! I am so glad I did. We spend the winter in AZ and once we get home to Wilderville, OR, it usually takes me 3 weeks of bending or sitting on a bucket to pull all the weeds. I used the hoe for an hour today and I'm more than 1/2 done with this detested chore. THANK YOU for a wonderful product! Karen S, OR